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Earth Planets Space, Vol. 64 (No. 10), pp. 945-954, 2012
doi:10.5047/eps.2011.02.012

Bed stress assessment under solitary wave run-up

Mohammad Bagus Adityawan1 and Hitoshi Tanaka2

1Graduate School of Engineering, Tohoku University, 6-6-06 Aoba Aramaki, Sendai 980-8579, Japan
2Department of Civil Engineering, Tohoku University, 6-6-06 Aoba Aramaki, Sendai 980-8579, Japan

(Received October 31, 2010; Revised February 14, 2011; Accepted February 21, 2011; Online published October 24, 2012)

Abstract: Understanding and forecasting tsunami wave run-up is very important in mitigating tsunami hazards. The bed stress under wave motion governs viscous wave damping and sediment transport processes, which change coastal morphology. One of the most common methods used for simulation is the shallow water equation (SWE) model, often used with a Manning-style approach for modeling bottom friction. Boundary-layer approaches provide better information regarding bed stress, particularly since they are also valid for nonsteady flows. In this study, a simulation of wave run-up is carried out by simultaneous coupling of the SWE model with the k-ω model. The k-ω model is used near the flow boundary at the bottom, only for assessing the boundary layer shear stress. Free stream velocity and calculations of the free surface evolution are obtained from the SWE model. Both this method, and the conventional method, are applied to the canonical problem of a solitary wave propagating over a constant depth and then up a sloping beach (Synolakis, 1987). The new method is found to increase the computational accuracy and physical realism compared to the conventional Manning method. Comparison of bed shear stresses shows that the new method is able to accommodate the effect of deceleration, which leads to sign changes and a phase shift between the free stream velocity and the bed stress. Furthermore, it is found that during the run-up and run-down process, bed stress in the direction of leaving the shoreline is more dominant.
Key words: Wave run-up, numerical simulation, shallow water equation, boundary layer, bed stress.


Corresponding author E-mail: bagus@kasen1.civil.tohoku.ac.jp


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